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Corps à baleines en satin liseré - France Circa 1730/1750 | Experts CNES

Corps à baleines en satin liseré – France Circa 1730/1750

Corps rigide à busc et œillets en deux parties lacées, entièrement baleiné de fanons de baleine et de roseaux. Fond en satin liseré cerise (satin de 8) à décor floral dit à la dentelle. Doublure en chanvre écru ou roussette entièrement piquée au point avant pour gainer les fanons. Tresse de soie chinée d’origine dans le dos.

Ce corps en fanons de baleine constitue la version la plus rigide, réalisé pour une occasion formelle ou pour la Cour. Sa coupe correspond exactement aux planches descriptives de l’Encyclopédie de Denis Diderot et de Jean le Rond d’Alembert publiée en 1751. Montaigne dans ses Essais 1 le décrit comme un véritable instrument de torture. Le corps baleiné accompagné du vertugadin crée une silhouette artificielle correspondant à un idéal de beauté. Le corps à baleine aplatit la poitrine et affine la taille tandis que les paniers élargissent les hanches 2.

  1. Montaigne, Essais, livre I, chapitre XL

2. Denis Bruna, La mécanique des dessous. Une histoire indiscrète de la silhouette, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, 2013, 1 p., p.118

Serge Liagre
Elève expert CNES
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